Archive for the ‘ florida ’ Category

Recent Pool Enclosure with Architectural Columns Jobs!

September 20th, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. has been working on a lot of Pool Enclosures with Architectural columns, check out the pictures! Architectural Columns are the new industry trend, they allow your Screen Enclosure to look more dressed up!

US Aluminum Services, Corp. offers many services including  screen enclosures and architectural columns.

Screen enclosures can offer a variety of benefits for homeowners.

A few of these benefits include:

  • Low Maintenance
  • Keep Children Safe
  • Lower Cost of Pool Cleaning
  • Eliminates bug, debris, and harsh sun
  • Protection from harmful UV rays

Adding architectural columns to your screen enclosure can help it blend into the style of your home.

Some features of architectural columns include:

  • Double – Strengh Aluminum Frame Support
  • Durable, High Grade Architectural Material
  • Mold, Mildew, and Fungus Resistant
  • Custom Paint
  • Array of Different Colors and designs to choose from

Below are some recent photos of pool enclosures with architectural columns done by US Aluminum Services, Corp.

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HOW TO INSTALL A POOL FENCE

September 9th, 2011

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 6 steps on how to install a pool fence! You can also view these steps on doityourself.com

Install a Pool Fence in 6 Steps

Installing a swimming pool fence is a wise move, especially if you have children, pets or elderly around. It provides  safety and adds charm to your swimming pool and deck.

Features and benefits of a pool fence:

  • Transparent Mesh
  • Weather Resistant
  • Key Lockable Gates
  • Conforms to Any Pool Shape

Follow these 6 steps to successfully install pool fencing that will not only keep you busy over the weekend, but also save you money on hiring labor.

Tools and Equipment Needed:

  • Garden hose or rope
  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk
  • Tape
  • Stick, 4 feet long
  • Waterproof marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Gloves
  • Drilling machine and cement drill bits
  • Pool fencing and plastic sleeves
  • Pool gate with spring latch

Step 1 – Measure Area and Purchase Appropriate Fencing

Arrange a garden hose or rope at least 2 to 3 feet from the edge of the pool to determine where you will install the safety fence. Also mark the opening for the gate with chalk, which usually opens on to the pool stairs.

Draw the hose or rope tight and measure it to give you an idea of how much fencing you need to purchase.

Purchase the type of fencing that will compliment the architectural design of your house along with providing you peace of mind and the assured safety. There are many types available in home improvement or hardware stores such as aluminum, steel, wrought iron and treated wood that are generally five or six feet high.

Step 2 – Cut Sticks

Take your 4-foot long stick and measure and cut a piece 3 feet long. This will be used to measure the distance between the fence sections. Measure and cut another stick 2 ½ inches long from the remaining piece, to measure the distance between each panel.

Step 3 – Mark Drilling Holes

Use a waterproof marker to mark the areas, using the 3-foot and 2 ½-inch sticks to provide appropriate spacing. Do this all around the pool. Make sure you measure and mark the area accurately because you will be drilling holes over them.

Step 4 – Prepare Drilling Machine

Make sure your drilling machine has a cement bit to drill holes into your deck. Measure the plastic sleeves that came with your fence material and measure, cut and install a piece of tape the same length on the drill bit where it meets the sleeve. This will allow you to drill the size of the sleeve, without going too deep.

Step 5 – Drill the Marked Area

Make sure you wear your protective eyewear and gloves, and begin drilling the holes on the marked spots. Clean away loose cement and insert the plastic sleeves into the holes, pushing them all the way down. These will hold the fencing poles, so make sure they are tightly fit in the hole.

Step 6 – Install Pool Fencing and Gate

Begin at the gate and insert poles into the sleeves. Pull the fencing material, which is usually steel mesh tight between them. Work your way around the pool to install the fencing.

Locate the openings in the top parts of the poles where you want to install your pool gate, and insert a spring latch, followed by the gate. This latch is a building requirement to ensure the gate closes by itself immediately after it is opened.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/install-a-pool-fence-in-6-steps#b#ixzz1Tn88mPVM

Below are a few pictures done in the Central Florida area by US Aluminum Services

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HOW TO INSTALL A CONCRETE WALKWAY

August 25th, 2011

Features and benefits of a concrete walkway:

»High Integrity Color

»Slip & Skid resistance

»Low Maintenance

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 9 simple steps on how to install a concrete walkway. You can also view these steps at doityourself.com

concrete walkway is an inexpensive and durable addition to a home’s landscape. This project requires thorough planning, simple tools, some elbow grease and a few days to complete. But the results can be well worth the effort.

Tools and Materials

  • Chalk dust or spray paint
  • Shovel
  • Gravel
  • 10-inch stakes
  • Twine
  • Tamping Tool
  • Mixed concrete
  • 1 foot x 4 inch x 4 inch-boards (for the forms)
  • Screws
  • Drill with a screw bit
  • Rake
  • 2×4-inch board (for smoothing the concrete)
  • Concrete float
  • Stiff Broom
  • Plastic tarp

Step 1 – Plan the Walkway

Decide the position of the walkway and mark the ground with chalk dust or spray paint. Then pound the stakes in along the excavated path so that they are 2 inches above ground. Then string them together with twine between them as a guideline.

Step 2 – Dig Out the Walkway

Remove the turf and then dig down until you have reached a depth of 8 inches. Level the soil and remove any stones. Now lay a 4-inch layer of gravel. Pack the gravel down and be sure it is level.

Step 3 – Build the Concrete Forms

Use the lumber to build forms to pour the concrete into. Screw the boards into the stakes that you placed along the path earlier. If you have planned curves in your plan you may need some laminated wood that bends more easily to create the curves. Use a level to be sure that the forms are level. The stakes should be below the top of the forms.

Step 4 – Pour the Concrete

Pour the concrete into the forms. Once it is poured rake over the concrete to level it.

Step 5 – Smooth the Concrete

Take a board and run it over the concrete resting it on the forms to smooth and level the concrete. Once it is fairly level then go over it with a concrete float held at an angle to do the final smoothing.

Step 6 – Edge the Walkway

Leave the concrete to cure for a couple of hours. Then separate the forms from the concrete by using an edging trowel.

Step 7 – Score the Expansion Joints

Expansion joints should be scored into the concrete every 4 feet. Use a board to create a straight line run the trowel along it. These joints allow the concrete to expand and contract and reduce cracking.

Step 8 – Cure the Concrete

Texture the concrete by sweeping with a stiff broom leaving a light texture on the surface. A texture keeps the concrete from being too smooth and slippery. Then the concrete should be covered with plastic tarping for at least two days. Rushing this process can interfere with the setting and durability of the concrete.

Step 9 – Remove the Forms

Once the concrete is dry and cured take the covering off. Carefully remove the forms and stakes. Fill in any soil needed next to the walkway and pack it down.

You may want to consider stamping the concrete or adding coloring to make the walkway more distinctive. A carefully installed concrete walkway will last for years and provides a useful and attractive part of your landscape.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-install-a-concrete-walkway#b#ixzz1Tn7E6cO1

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

Concrete walkway done by Us Aluminum Services

Concrete driveway done by Us Aluminum Services

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HOW TO INSTALL A POOL SAFETY FENCE

August 3rd, 2011


Adding a Pool Safety Fence around your pool is a good caution to take if you have children, pets or elderly around.

It provides  safety and adds charm to your swimming pool and deck!

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 6 Steps on how to add a Pool Safety Fence around your pool!. You can also view these steps at doityourself.com.

Tools and Equipment Needed

  • Garden hose or rope
  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk
  • Tape
  • Stick, 4 feet long
  • Waterproof marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Gloves
  • Drilling machine and cement drill bits
  • Pool fencing and plastic sleeves
  • Pool gate with spring latch

Step 1 – Measure Area and Purchase Appropriate Fencing

Arrange a garden hose or rope at least 2 to 3 feet from the edge of the pool to determine where you will install the safety fence. Also mark the opening for the gate with chalk, which usually opens on to the pool stairs.

Draw the hose or rope tight and measure it to give you an idea of how much fencing you need to purchase.

Purchase the type of fencing that will compliment the architectural design of your house along with providing you peace of mind and the assured safety. There are many types available in home improvement or hardware stores such as aluminum, steel, wrought iron and treated wood that are generally five or six feet high.

Step 2 – Cut Sticks

Take your 4-foot long stick and measure and cut a piece 3 feet long. This will be used to measure the distance between the fence sections. Measure and cut another stick 2 ½ inches long from the remaining piece, to measure the distance between each panel.

Step 3 – Mark Drilling Holes

Use a waterproof marker to mark the areas, using the 3-foot and 2 ½-inch sticks to provide appropriate spacing. Do this all around the pool. Make sure you measure and mark the area accurately because you will be drilling holes over them.

Step 4 – Prepare Drilling Machine

Make sure your drilling machine has a cement bit to drill holes into your deck. Measure the plastic sleeves that came with your fence material and measure, cut and install a piece of tape the same length on the drill bit where it meets the sleeve. This will allow you to drill the size of the sleeve, without going too deep.

Step 5 – Drill the Marked Area

Make sure you wear your protective eyewear and gloves, and begin drilling the holes on the marked spots. Clean away loose cement and insert the plastic sleeves into the holes, pushing them all the way down. These will hold the fencing poles, so make sure they are tightly fit in the hole.

Step 6 – Install Pool Fencing and Gate

Begin at the gate and insert poles into the sleeves. Pull the fencing material, which is usually steel mesh tight between them. Work your way around the pool to install the fencing.

Locate the openings in the top parts of the poles where you want to install your pool gate, and insert a spring latch, followed by the gate. This latch is a building requirement to ensure the gate closes by itself immediately after it is opened.

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

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Posted in Categories: Aluminum > Aluminum Association of Florida > FL > florida > Hillsborough County > lakeland > Orlando > Pinellas County > plant city > pool enclosures > screen rooms > St. Pete > St. Petersburg > Tampa | No Comments »

HOW TO INSTALL A CARPORT

July 29th, 2011

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 7 Steps on how to add a metal carport roof to your carport!

It is relatively easy even for novice do-it-yourselfers. You can also view these steps at doityourself.com.


Features of having a carport:

  • Custom Designed to complement the look and feel of your home.
  • Covers come in variety of sizes and styles.
  • Weather-Proof barrier protecting your patio or vehicle.
  • Maintenance Free
  • Crafted to never rust, warp, crack, rot, or become infested with insects.

Tools and Materials Required:

  • 25-foot measuring tape
  • Power drill and screwdriver bits
  • Claw hammer
  • Roof underlayment
  • Roofing nails
  • Roof waterproofing felt
  • 1-inch by 4-inch wood strips
  • Foam closure strips
  • Butyl tape sealant
  • Wall and rake flashing
  • Carport roof gutter
  • Aluminum roof sheathing panels
  • Jigsaw with metal cutting blade
  • Self tapping wood screws with rubber gaskets
  • 7/8 inch metal self-tapping screws
  • 2 assistants
  • 2 stepladders 10 feet high
  • Thick slashproof gloves

Step 1: Remove Existing Roof Covering

Remove all shingles, tar paper or other roof coverings. Check the roof waterproofing. If the waterproofing is intact and your carport has no leaks, you can apply the new metal roof over it. If the waterproofing has tears or holes, remove it.

Step 2: Check the Roof Underlayment

If the roof underlayment is solid and intact, install a new layer of waterproofing felt according to instructions. If the roof underlayment has holes or the wood is warped, remove the damaged sections and install new roof underlayment, then add the waterproofing felt on top.

Step 3: Measure to Purchase Metal Roof Sheathing and Flashing

For an aluminum or sheet steel roof, you will need to get flashing made of the same metal to prevent chemical corrosion of the roof sheathing. Measure the size of your roof and determine the number of metal roof panels you will need. Have them cut to size by the manufacturer. Most panels are 3 feet wide and come in lengths from 5 to 40 feet. Measure carefully at the roof edge to order the correct rake flashing to finish the roof.

Step 4: Install the Roof Flashing at the House Wall

Install roof flashing so it overlaps the wall of your house and under the waterproofing by 6 inches. Make a tight seal between the flashing and the waterproof felt to prevent leaks.

Step 5: Lay Wood Strips to Support the Metal Roof

Place and nail 1 x 4 wood strips at a right angle from the wall to the edge of the carport roof. These support the metal roof and keep wood and metal screws from penetrating the carport ceiling.

Step 6: Install the Metal Roof

You will need 2 or more assistants for this part of the task, as steel sheathing is very heavy. Aluminum sheathing is very flexible and can be pulled from your hands by a strong wind gust. Lift the panels one at a time to the roof and secure them to the underlayment with the self-tapping wood screws fitted with rubber gaskets. Each panel is secured to its neighbor with self-tapping galvanized metal screws. Trim the last metal panel to the correct width with the jigsaw as necessary.

Step 7: Install the Rake Flashing

At the edge of the roof, install the rake flashing. If you are putting in a roof gutter, the flashing must overlap the side of the gutter closest to the roof sheathing. Place foam closure strips over the upper edge of the rake flashing and seal with butyl tape sealant, applied in a continuous bead. Ensure the flashing face is square to the roof edge.

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

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HOW TO INSTALL A WINDOW

July 20th, 2011

How to Install a Window

When windows are placed in the proper spot, they can catch the perfect view of outside and let in a lot of sunlight!

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 9 steps on how to successfully remove an old window and install a new one in its place! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY network.

Materials

  • double-paned window
  • wooden window sill
  • paint
  • trim molding
  • silicone
  • insulation
  • cedar shims

Tools

  • finish nailer
  • miter saw
  • circular saw
  • screw gun
  • hammer
  • pry bar

Step 1: Remove Window Trim and Casing

The first thing to do is to use a prybar to remove the window trim and jamb extension from around the old window. The jam extension is just a piece of wood that’s been ripped down and attached to the window jamb to bring it even with the wall.

Step 2: Remove Old Window/Guide Track

Unscrew the window from the jamb and remove it. Take care not to break the glass while removing. Many windows will be multiple window sashes with moving tracks on the side. Those types of windows may be easier to remove one sash at a time.

Step 3: Prep/Repair New Window Opening

With the window out of the wall, inspect the condition of the window jamb to make sure there is no structural damage. It’s not uncommon for an old window to leak, rotting out the jamb. If there is damage, you will have to replace or repair the damaged areas of the jamb before moving forward. Also, you will need to measure your rough opening to make sure that it can accommodate your new window. The rough opening should be 1/4” to 3/8” larger than the exterior dimensions of the new window.

Step 4: Inspect/Replace Window Stop

The window stop is a piece of wood ripped down and placed around the exterior side of the window jamb. The function of the stop is to prevent the window from sliding out of the opening. It literally stops the window from moving. It’s very likely that the original stop is still in useable condition, but if it is damaged, you may need to repair or replace this as well.

Step 5: Dry Fit Window

Before applying the silicone to the the window stop, dry fit the window to make sure there are no fitment issues. If you do have fitment issues, address them now and then dry fit the window again. When done properly the window should fit snugly into the opening. Do not move forward with the install until you are satisfied with the way the window fits in the opening.

Step 6: Install Window

The actual install of the window is very simple. First, run a bead of silicone on the inside edge of the window stop (Image 1) and then slide the window into place (Image 2). Place a level across the top of the window and press cedar shims between the bottom of the window frame and the jamb as necessary to get the window sitting level (Image 3). The window will usually come with its own hardware packet, typically consisting of four screws that will go through the sides of the unit to anchor it to the jamb. Two screws should be put into each side of the window, one near the top and the other near the bottom (Image 4). There will be pre-drilled holes in the window frame for the screws.

Step 7: Add Insulation

There may be gaps around the original window frame the wall studs, and this is the perfect opportunity to insulate those areas better. For larger gaps, cut pieces of roll insulation and pack them into the gaps. For harder to reach spots, you can use expanding spray insulation foam.

Step 8: Add Extension Jambs and Trim Molding

Pick a style of molding that fits your home’s decor and create a frame around the window. Measure the length of each piece and use a miter saw to cut the trim to the appropriate length. Make your cuts on 45-degree angles so the trim will fit together with a nice picture-frame look. Attach the trim to the wall with finish nails. You may also need to add thin strips of wood trim (a jamb extension, see Step 1) inside the original window frame to cover the gap between the new window and the drywall.

TIP: At first, use only enough nails to hold the trim to the wall until you’ve successfully lined up all four sides of the frame. Once you’ve achieved the proper fit and you’re sure the trim will not require additional adjustments to fit, you can go back and add more finish nails, every 6 to 8 inches. Any slight gaps in the corners can be filled in with silicone before painting.

Step 9: Paint and Add Finishing Touches

The final step is to finish off the window framing by filling any nail holes with stainable/paintable wood putty and painting or staining the trim moulding around the window for a finished look.

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HOW TO INSTALL PAVERS

July 15th, 2011

If you are thinking about building a walkway or a pool deck in your yard, pavers are a great idea to use to complete the job! They will make your pool deck or walk way look beautiful!

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 10 steps in installing a screen door! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY network.

Features and Benefits of Having Pavers:

  • Belgard PaverSystems paver products
  • High Integrity Color
  • Slip & Skid resistance
  • Low Maintenance
  • Easy Paver Replacement
  • Hundreds of Shapes, Sizes, and Colors to choose from

Materials

  • concrete
  • masonry sand
  • pavers
  • cinderblocks
  • shovels
  • wheelbarrow
  • rubber mallet
  • straightedge
  • hammer
  • cold chisel
  • diamond edge wet saw
  • trowel
  • vibratory plate compactor

Tools

Step 1: Clear the Area

Before starting any excavation project, contact local utility companies to identify gas and water lines. Using shovels, wheelbarrows and good old-fashioned muscle, begin hauling out dirt and debris.

Step 2: Spread Crushed Concrete

Once dug to the right depth throughout the courtyard, fill the area up again. Start by spreading roughly two inches of crushed concrete evenly over the soil. The crushed concrete is an aggregate.

Step 3: Screed Sand

Lay out the conduit poles about two feet apart (Image 1). Since you will not be able to walk on the sand once it is screeded, work in small sections (Image 2).

Step 4: Lay Pavers

Lay the pavers down with the rough surface facing upward. This will give the courtyard more of a natural stone look. Place a straight edge along the length of the pavers just laid. By tapping gently with a rubber mallet, you are able to keep the pavers nice and flat.

Step 5: Continue Screeding and Laying Pavers

Continue screeding the sand bed one section at a time before laying the next area of pavers. Once laid, the pavers provide an excellent area to work without upsetting the newly screeded sand bed. Continue screeding and laying pavers, leaving the area for the fountain open.

Step 6: Lay the Fountain Foundation

Position four cinderblocks where the fountain base will sit, making sure they are level. These foundation blocks will help distribute the weight of the fountain and prevent uneven sinking or wobbling. Using a hammer and cold chisel, score the pavers along the line. If there are large areas where pavers need to be cut to size, a more modern technique can be used with a diamond blade wet saw.

Step 7: Add a Restraining Wall

Add a small DIY restraining wall along the flowerbeds burring the pavers in an upright position. This is an inexpensive, effective and attractive way to keep dirt and water from spilling over into the courtyard.

Step 8: Place the Fountain

After placing the fountain on its new foundation, add a row of pavers to serve as a small retaining wall for the plants.

Step 9: Spread Masonry Sand

Making sure to fill the spaces in between each paver, spread masonry sand across the entire surface. Leaving surplus sand across the top of the pavers helps cushion the surface when you use the plate compactor. The vibration of the plate compactor also helps to fill the joints in between pavers.

Step 10: Re-Sweep the Area

Finally, re-sweep the surface with the remaining dry sand. This process may have to be repeated over the new few days as the sand settles and rain compacts it.

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

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Posted in Categories: Aluminum > Aluminum Association of Florida > FL > florida > Hillsborough County > lakeland > Orlando > pool enclosures > screen rooms > Services > Services > Sunrooms | No Comments »

HOW TO INSTALL A FRONT PORCH

July 8th, 2011

A Porch is a great place for you and your family to sit and relax outside!

With a few steps, you can build your porch today!

A porch can be built in the front or back of your home and come in all different sizes!

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 10 steps in installing your very own porch! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from HGTV.com

Materials and Tools:

  • one 4x4x8 pressure-treated post
  • two post mounts $2.00 $4.00
  • two J-bolt assemblies
  • box 8D nails
  • six 2x8x10 pressure-treated boards
  • five joist hangers
  • box joist hanger nails
  • 183-square-feet 3/4-inch pine tongue-and-groove flooring
  • 12 cedar 2x4x8 boards
  • one gallon paint to match house trim
  • 5-cubic yards mulch
  • plants
  • one 4-foot Sonotube concrete form
  • 10 bags quickset concrete
  • four 4-inch lag bolts
  • four lag bolt shields
  • masonry bit for lag bolt shields
  • grinder with metal cut-off wheel
  • layout string line
  • level
  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • post hole diggers
  • power miter box
  • rakes
  • safety glasses
  • shovels

Steps:

1. Unscrew the handrails from the house and use a grinder to cut off the posts in the concrete.

2. Layout the new porch using string line tied to stakes in the ground. Place the center of the footings at the outside corners for the new porch.

3. The porch requires two footing to support the outer edge of the new porch. The inner edge will be bolted to the house. Dig the holes 24-inches deep by 10 to 12-inches in diameter. Drop in a 24-inch section of Sonotube and level. Pack dirt around the perimeter to hold in place.

4. Mix the concrete and fill the Sonotubes to the top. Scrape off excess and level it with the top of the tube. Press a J-bolt into the center of the tube and let dry. After the concrete sets, bolt the post brackets to the J-bolt.

5. Begin bolting the 2×8 to the wall of the house with lag bolts. Make sure the board is level, drill and mark the holes. Tighten a lag bolt through each pre-drilled hole into the band-board of the house. Set the board 1-inch below the threshold of the existing door.

6. Secure the end bands from the house ledger to the footing. Run the band board out to the footer and check to make sure it’s level. Measure the height of the 4×4 post and cut it in. Do the same on the other end.

7. Add the outer joist and once the perimeter is in place check to make sure it’s square. If it is, add the middle joists on 16-inch centers. Once nailed in place, add the joist hangers to the end of each board. Notch the joists over the existing concrete porch, if necessary.

8. Install the tongue-and-groove pine starting at the outside edge and working towards the house. This places the cut board against the house where it will not be visible.

9. If you’re using pine flooring, prime very surface of every board. You will not be able to get to the underside of the deck once it?s built, so it’s important to prime everything before assembly.

10. Build the planter by cutting the pine flooring to 32-inch and assemble it into an 18-inch square box, with the boards running vertically. Build a shelf of 1/2-inch pressure-treated plywood to hold the plants.

Below are a couple of  US Aluminum Services, Corp. porch’s that have been installed in the Central Florida Area:

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Habitat For Humanity- Home at Last Project 2

July 1st, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp of Orlando,Florida has joined up with Winter Park Construction in the West Orlando Habitat for Humanity Home at Last 2 Project, building a home for another disable veteran and his family, the family that was chosen was the Griffin Family from Oakland, Florida. The veteran Benjamin Griffin, 24, is a 5 year US Army Veteran who was in Iraq when we was brutally injured in an IED explosion, which has now left him in a wheelchair.

US Aluminum Services, Corp. has donated their services in helping build the Griffin family their dream home. US Aluminum Services, Corp. donated and installed a pool enclosure and lanai for their porch/patio for the Griffin Family home, with the help from getting their materials from their suppliers; Eagle Metal Aluminum and Phifer‘s BetterVue Screen.

Pictures of the Enclosure are found below:

Lanai for their Porch, Used BetterVue Screen

You can visit www.us-aluminum.com to learn more

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HOW TO BUILD A SHADE CANOPY FRAME TO A DECK

July 1st, 2011

Get your backyard ready for the summer by installing a Pergola or Lattice to create shade from the blistering hot Florida sun!

Pergolas comes in an assortment of colors: White, Bronze, Sand and Adobe

Features and Benefits of Owning a Pergola or Lattice

  • Our Aluminum is guaranteed Not to Peel, Blister, Flask, Chip, Rust or Crack
  • Pergolas Receives a Shade Factor of 40-60 Percent
  • Rain, Sun & Weather Resistant
  • Carports have a shade factor of 100%

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 8 steps in installing your very own pergola! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY Network.

Step 1: Determine the Size of the Area

Determine the size of the area to be covered and order the canopy. The key to your design is to figure out how much of the deck you want to be covered by the canopy and how far the canopy will project out from the house. The deck that was used for this particular demonstration is small: 12′ x 14-1/2′. The canopy covers most of the deck from the house to the first step off the front of the deck.

Step 2: Build Support Boxes

Build rectangular boxes to support the canopy base posts. These boxes are mounted flush to the top of the deck stringers and kick-plate on the first step off the deck surface; are attached to the boxes.

Step 3: Notch Deck Planks for Posts

Visually line up the posts and mark out a notch in the decking planks to accommodate the 4×4 posts. Using a saw, cut out the notches and clean the cuts with a sharp chisel.

Step 4: Notch Posts to Accept Header

Clamp the upright canopy posts together and notch out where the headers attach to the posts. Make a series of parallel cuts to create a notch, break it off with a hammer, and clean up any ridges with a chisel. Be sure the chisel is sharp and always cut along the wood grain.

Step 5: Attach Front Posts

Raise a post into place and plumb it with a level. Support it with 2x4s angled to the ground. Attach the post to the rectangular box below the deck using galvinzed nails and or long screws. Use carriage bolts to attach the post to the deck itself. Repeat for the second post.

Step 6: Attach Double-Sided Header

Measure and cut each header while on the ground. Raise the first header board into the its appropriate notch on the posts. Raise the other header and place it in its notch on other side of the posts. Clamp both headers in place and drill holes for the bolts. Ratchet the bolts into the headers.

Step 7: Attach Return Boards

Measure the distance between the outside header board and the frieze board, which is a 2×6 board attached to the house with a small lip where the canopy frame can be attached to the house. Add to the overall length any amount of desired overhang. Cut the “return” boards to length. Raise the boards and rest them on the headers and frieze board. Make sure the returns are square to the house and to each other. Attach the return boards on both ends with galvanized metal brackets.

Step 8: Attach the Shade Canopy

The canopy comes with tracts that are pre-cut to the proper length. One end attaches to the house frieze board and the other end to the frame header.

Mount the brackets for the tracks under the return boards. Cut a little piece out of the frieze board molding (Image 2), and space them far enough apart to allow for the roller mechanism to function effectively on each side of the fabric.

Screw in the brackets (Image 3) that are supplied by the canopy manufacturer, and, using the locking bolts that come with the canopy tracks, attach one end of each track to the house and the other end to the header (Image 4).

Note: The canopy comes pre-assembled with cross-members. On the end of each cross-member there’s a roller; the rollers go directly into the tracts.

Below are a couple of US Aluminum Services Pergola’s and Lattice that have been installed in the Central Florida Area.

Pergola Attached to a Sunroom

US Aluminum Services White Pergola

Perfect Pergola for any Backyard Retreat

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