Rain gutters are extremely important because without them, water would erode the soil around the foundation of your home as well as splash dirt up onto the siding. For Florida Residents, proper working rain gutters are a basic need because they often have to deal with hurricanes and tropical storms and if the gutters are not draining correctly, it can cause many other problems in and around their home.
Features and benefits of gutters:
- Stops small to large leaves
- Stops tree branches, pine needles, straw, and seeds
- Virtually invisible from the curbside
- Over 20 colors to choose from
Installing Gutters in 8 Steps:
Step 1- Snap Layout Lines: Mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia 1 ¼ inches below the metal drip-edge flashing (on the extra-wide fascia shown here, the gutter is lower down). At the other end of the fascia (or at the downspout location if there’s one in the middle of the run), mark the low end of the gutter run, keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately ½ inch for every 10 feet of run. Snap a chalk line between the two points (as shown).
Step 2 - Attach Fascia Brackets: Locate the rafter tails behind the fascia; they’re typically spaced 16 inches on center (look for telltale nail heads). Make a mark at the chalk line on every other rafter tail. Bore a ⅛-inch-diameter pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail at each mark. Fasten fascia brackets with ¼-inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches (as shown).
Step 3 – Saw Gutter To Length: Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown). If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.
Step 4 – Attach End Caps: At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets. (If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above). Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet. To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.
Step 5 – Cut Downspout Holes: Use a downspout outlet to mark the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter. To do this, turn the gutter upside down and place the outlet on top. Drill a ¼-inch-diameter hole through the center of the circular outline. Turn the gutter over and cut the downspout hole using a 4-inch-diameter hole saw chucked into a drill (as shown).
Step 6 – Install Gutter: Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia. Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown). Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter. Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.
Step 7 – Form Strip-Miter Joint At Corner: Cover the joint between two lengths of gutter at each corner with a strip miter — a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum. Wrap the aluminum strip tight around the underside of the gutter. Secure it with eight pop rivets or sheet- metal screws. Cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter (as shown) with snips, and then fold down the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter. This joint can also be made more waterproof with the addition of a high-quality siliconized caulk.
Step 8 – Connect Downspout To Gutter: Secure the downspout outlet to the gutter with four pop rivets or screws. Screw a downspout elbow to the outlet tube protruding down from the gutter. Hold another elbow against the house and cut a piece of downspout to fit between the two elbows. Use needlenosed pliers to slightly crimp the elbow to fit into the downspout (as shown). Fasten the parts together with pop rivets or screws.