Posts Tagged ‘ Central Florida ’

How To Install Gutters

December 1st, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. is providing you with several steps on how to install gutters! You can also view these steps at

Rain gutters are extremely important because without them, water would erode the soil around the foundation of your home as well as splash dirt up onto the siding. For Florida Residents, proper working rain gutters are a basic need because they often have to deal with hurricanes and tropical storms and if the gutters are not draining correctly, it can cause many other problems in and around their home.

Features and benefits of gutters:

- Stops small to large leaves

- Stops tree branches, pine needles, straw, and seeds

- Virtually invisible from the curbside

- Over 20 colors to choose from

Installing Gutters in 8 Steps:

Step 1- Snap Layout Lines: Mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia 1 ¼ inches below the metal drip-edge flashing (on the extra-wide fascia shown here, the gutter is lower down). At the other end of the fascia (or at the downspout location if there’s one in the middle of the run), mark the low end of the gutter run, keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately ½ inch for every 10 feet of run. Snap a chalk line between the two points (as shown).

Step 2 - Attach Fascia Brackets: Locate the rafter tails behind the fascia; they’re typically spaced 16 inches on center (look for telltale nail heads).  Make a mark at the chalk line on every other rafter tail. Bore a ⅛-inch-diameter pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail at each mark. Fasten fascia brackets with ¼-inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches (as shown).

Step 3 – Saw Gutter To Length: Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown). If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.

Step 4 – Attach End Caps: At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets. (If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above). Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet. To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.

Step 5 – Cut Downspout Holes: Use a downspout outlet to mark the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter. To do this, turn the gutter upside down and place the outlet on top. Drill a ¼-inch-diameter hole through the center of the circular outline. Turn the gutter over and cut the downspout hole using a 4-inch-diameter hole saw chucked into a drill (as shown).

Step 6 – Install Gutter: Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia. Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown). Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter. Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.

Step 7 – Form Strip-Miter Joint At Corner: Cover the joint between two lengths of gutter at each corner with a strip miter — a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum. Wrap the aluminum strip tight around the underside of the gutter. Secure it with eight pop rivets or sheet- metal screws. Cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter (as shown) with snips, and then fold down the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter. This joint can also be made more waterproof with the addition of a high-quality siliconized caulk.

Step 8 – Connect Downspout To Gutter: Secure the downspout outlet to the gutter with four pop rivets or screws. Screw a downspout elbow to the outlet tube protruding down from the gutter. Hold another elbow against the house and cut a piece of downspout to fit between the two elbows. Use needlenosed pliers to slightly crimp the elbow to fit into the downspout (as shown). Fasten the parts together with pop rivets or screws.

Below are some pictures of seamless gutters installed in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services, Corp.

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October 13th, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. is providing you with several steps on how to plan and post a pergola! You can also view these steps at

Installing a Pergola in 7 Steps

A pergola is a unique architectural blend that places you both inside and out at the same time. A pergola can be used to define a passageway or frame a focal point in your yard.

Features and benefits of a pergola:

  • Pergolas Receives a Shade Factor of 40-60 Percent
  • Rain, Sun & Weather Resistant
  • Come in a variety of different colors

Step 1. A Toro Dingo’s 16-inch auger makes short work of straight, 40-inch-deep holes for footings, or whatever depth will reach below frost line in your climate. For drainage, pour and pack 4 inches of gravel into the holes before installing the posts.

Step 2. To lay out posthole locations, build a 2 x 8 frame. Its inside corners mark the four posts. Dig a small trench, level the frame, then remove it to dig the holes. Next, replace the frame, set the posts and fasten them to the sides of the frame so they’ll stay plumb.

Step 3. After fastening the posts to the frame, install 2 x 4 angle braces from the frame to the posts. These will keep the posts from twisting or warping before the rafters go up and lock the posts in place for backfilling. You can remove the braces later.

Step 4. Posthole depth varies. It’s best to install the posts long and trim them to final height, measuring from the frame upward. Finish the circular-saw cut with a handsaw, then install a cleat 6 inches down (inset) to hold the girders while fastening.

Step 5. Temporarily set the girders with deck screws above the cleats, then install the through-bolts in the girders and posts. Allow the girder to rise above the post an inch or so in case you decide to run wire for lights or power.

Step 6. Cut the rafter tails on the ground, then mark their 18-inch cantilevers against the posts. After wedging one end up top, walk the other end up the ladder. Toe-screw the rafters to the girders using a 3-inch deck screw.

Step 7. A 2 x 4 rafter stay atop the rafters every 24 inches adds the right detail while holding the rafters in place. Install stays over the girders first, then over the rafters. After two coats of tinted oil-based stain, add a layer of sod, then a table and chairs.

Below are some pictures of pergolas that Us Aluminum Services, Corp. has done in the Central Florida Area.

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September 9th, 2011

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 6 steps on how to install a pool fence! You can also view these steps on

Install a Pool Fence in 6 Steps

Installing a swimming pool fence is a wise move, especially if you have children, pets or elderly around. It provides  safety and adds charm to your swimming pool and deck.

Features and benefits of a pool fence:

  • Transparent Mesh
  • Weather Resistant
  • Key Lockable Gates
  • Conforms to Any Pool Shape

Follow these 6 steps to successfully install pool fencing that will not only keep you busy over the weekend, but also save you money on hiring labor.

Tools and Equipment Needed:

  • Garden hose or rope
  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk
  • Tape
  • Stick, 4 feet long
  • Waterproof marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Gloves
  • Drilling machine and cement drill bits
  • Pool fencing and plastic sleeves
  • Pool gate with spring latch

Step 1 – Measure Area and Purchase Appropriate Fencing

Arrange a garden hose or rope at least 2 to 3 feet from the edge of the pool to determine where you will install the safety fence. Also mark the opening for the gate with chalk, which usually opens on to the pool stairs.

Draw the hose or rope tight and measure it to give you an idea of how much fencing you need to purchase.

Purchase the type of fencing that will compliment the architectural design of your house along with providing you peace of mind and the assured safety. There are many types available in home improvement or hardware stores such as aluminum, steel, wrought iron and treated wood that are generally five or six feet high.

Step 2 – Cut Sticks

Take your 4-foot long stick and measure and cut a piece 3 feet long. This will be used to measure the distance between the fence sections. Measure and cut another stick 2 ½ inches long from the remaining piece, to measure the distance between each panel.

Step 3 – Mark Drilling Holes

Use a waterproof marker to mark the areas, using the 3-foot and 2 ½-inch sticks to provide appropriate spacing. Do this all around the pool. Make sure you measure and mark the area accurately because you will be drilling holes over them.

Step 4 – Prepare Drilling Machine

Make sure your drilling machine has a cement bit to drill holes into your deck. Measure the plastic sleeves that came with your fence material and measure, cut and install a piece of tape the same length on the drill bit where it meets the sleeve. This will allow you to drill the size of the sleeve, without going too deep.

Step 5 – Drill the Marked Area

Make sure you wear your protective eyewear and gloves, and begin drilling the holes on the marked spots. Clean away loose cement and insert the plastic sleeves into the holes, pushing them all the way down. These will hold the fencing poles, so make sure they are tightly fit in the hole.

Step 6 – Install Pool Fencing and Gate

Begin at the gate and insert poles into the sleeves. Pull the fencing material, which is usually steel mesh tight between them. Work your way around the pool to install the fencing.

Locate the openings in the top parts of the poles where you want to install your pool gate, and insert a spring latch, followed by the gate. This latch is a building requirement to ensure the gate closes by itself immediately after it is opened.
Read more:

Below are a few pictures done in the Central Florida area by US Aluminum Services

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August 25th, 2011

Features and benefits of a concrete walkway:

»High Integrity Color

»Slip & Skid resistance

»Low Maintenance

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 9 simple steps on how to install a concrete walkway. You can also view these steps at

concrete walkway is an inexpensive and durable addition to a home’s landscape. This project requires thorough planning, simple tools, some elbow grease and a few days to complete. But the results can be well worth the effort.

Tools and Materials

  • Chalk dust or spray paint
  • Shovel
  • Gravel
  • 10-inch stakes
  • Twine
  • Tamping Tool
  • Mixed concrete
  • 1 foot x 4 inch x 4 inch-boards (for the forms)
  • Screws
  • Drill with a screw bit
  • Rake
  • 2×4-inch board (for smoothing the concrete)
  • Concrete float
  • Stiff Broom
  • Plastic tarp

Step 1 – Plan the Walkway

Decide the position of the walkway and mark the ground with chalk dust or spray paint. Then pound the stakes in along the excavated path so that they are 2 inches above ground. Then string them together with twine between them as a guideline.

Step 2 – Dig Out the Walkway

Remove the turf and then dig down until you have reached a depth of 8 inches. Level the soil and remove any stones. Now lay a 4-inch layer of gravel. Pack the gravel down and be sure it is level.

Step 3 – Build the Concrete Forms

Use the lumber to build forms to pour the concrete into. Screw the boards into the stakes that you placed along the path earlier. If you have planned curves in your plan you may need some laminated wood that bends more easily to create the curves. Use a level to be sure that the forms are level. The stakes should be below the top of the forms.

Step 4 – Pour the Concrete

Pour the concrete into the forms. Once it is poured rake over the concrete to level it.

Step 5 – Smooth the Concrete

Take a board and run it over the concrete resting it on the forms to smooth and level the concrete. Once it is fairly level then go over it with a concrete float held at an angle to do the final smoothing.

Step 6 – Edge the Walkway

Leave the concrete to cure for a couple of hours. Then separate the forms from the concrete by using an edging trowel.

Step 7 – Score the Expansion Joints

Expansion joints should be scored into the concrete every 4 feet. Use a board to create a straight line run the trowel along it. These joints allow the concrete to expand and contract and reduce cracking.

Step 8 – Cure the Concrete

Texture the concrete by sweeping with a stiff broom leaving a light texture on the surface. A texture keeps the concrete from being too smooth and slippery. Then the concrete should be covered with plastic tarping for at least two days. Rushing this process can interfere with the setting and durability of the concrete.

Step 9 – Remove the Forms

Once the concrete is dry and cured take the covering off. Carefully remove the forms and stakes. Fill in any soil needed next to the walkway and pack it down.

You may want to consider stamping the concrete or adding coloring to make the walkway more distinctive. A carefully installed concrete walkway will last for years and provides a useful and attractive part of your landscape.

Read more:

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

Concrete walkway done by Us Aluminum Services

Concrete driveway done by Us Aluminum Services

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Habitat For Humanity- Home at Last Project 2

July 1st, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp of Orlando,Florida has joined up with Winter Park Construction in the West Orlando Habitat for Humanity Home at Last 2 Project, building a home for another disable veteran and his family, the family that was chosen was the Griffin Family from Oakland, Florida. The veteran Benjamin Griffin, 24, is a 5 year US Army Veteran who was in Iraq when we was brutally injured in an IED explosion, which has now left him in a wheelchair.

US Aluminum Services, Corp. has donated their services in helping build the Griffin family their dream home. US Aluminum Services, Corp. donated and installed a pool enclosure and lanai for their porch/patio for the Griffin Family home, with the help from getting their materials from their suppliers; Eagle Metal Aluminum and Phifer‘s BetterVue Screen.

Pictures of the Enclosure are found below:

Lanai for their Porch, Used BetterVue Screen

You can visit to learn more

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July 1st, 2011

Get your backyard ready for the summer by installing a Pergola or Lattice to create shade from the blistering hot Florida sun!

Pergolas comes in an assortment of colors: White, Bronze, Sand and Adobe

Features and Benefits of Owning a Pergola or Lattice

  • Our Aluminum is guaranteed Not to Peel, Blister, Flask, Chip, Rust or Crack
  • Pergolas Receives a Shade Factor of 40-60 Percent
  • Rain, Sun & Weather Resistant
  • Carports have a shade factor of 100%

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 8 steps in installing your very own pergola! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY Network.

Step 1: Determine the Size of the Area

Determine the size of the area to be covered and order the canopy. The key to your design is to figure out how much of the deck you want to be covered by the canopy and how far the canopy will project out from the house. The deck that was used for this particular demonstration is small: 12′ x 14-1/2′. The canopy covers most of the deck from the house to the first step off the front of the deck.

Step 2: Build Support Boxes

Build rectangular boxes to support the canopy base posts. These boxes are mounted flush to the top of the deck stringers and kick-plate on the first step off the deck surface; are attached to the boxes.

Step 3: Notch Deck Planks for Posts

Visually line up the posts and mark out a notch in the decking planks to accommodate the 4×4 posts. Using a saw, cut out the notches and clean the cuts with a sharp chisel.

Step 4: Notch Posts to Accept Header

Clamp the upright canopy posts together and notch out where the headers attach to the posts. Make a series of parallel cuts to create a notch, break it off with a hammer, and clean up any ridges with a chisel. Be sure the chisel is sharp and always cut along the wood grain.

Step 5: Attach Front Posts

Raise a post into place and plumb it with a level. Support it with 2x4s angled to the ground. Attach the post to the rectangular box below the deck using galvinzed nails and or long screws. Use carriage bolts to attach the post to the deck itself. Repeat for the second post.

Step 6: Attach Double-Sided Header

Measure and cut each header while on the ground. Raise the first header board into the its appropriate notch on the posts. Raise the other header and place it in its notch on other side of the posts. Clamp both headers in place and drill holes for the bolts. Ratchet the bolts into the headers.

Step 7: Attach Return Boards

Measure the distance between the outside header board and the frieze board, which is a 2×6 board attached to the house with a small lip where the canopy frame can be attached to the house. Add to the overall length any amount of desired overhang. Cut the “return” boards to length. Raise the boards and rest them on the headers and frieze board. Make sure the returns are square to the house and to each other. Attach the return boards on both ends with galvanized metal brackets.

Step 8: Attach the Shade Canopy

The canopy comes with tracts that are pre-cut to the proper length. One end attaches to the house frieze board and the other end to the frame header.

Mount the brackets for the tracks under the return boards. Cut a little piece out of the frieze board molding (Image 2), and space them far enough apart to allow for the roller mechanism to function effectively on each side of the fabric.

Screw in the brackets (Image 3) that are supplied by the canopy manufacturer, and, using the locking bolts that come with the canopy tracks, attach one end of each track to the house and the other end to the header (Image 4).

Note: The canopy comes pre-assembled with cross-members. On the end of each cross-member there’s a roller; the rollers go directly into the tracts.

Below are a couple of US Aluminum Services Pergola’s and Lattice that have been installed in the Central Florida Area.

Pergola Attached to a Sunroom

US Aluminum Services White Pergola

Perfect Pergola for any Backyard Retreat

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Check Out US Alum Svcs July’s Jobs Photos at FLICKR!

August 2nd, 2010

US Aluminum Services jobs photos for July 2010 are up! Make sure to check them out so you can expand your imagination of your very own backyard retreat!

CLICK HERE Check Out July’s Jobs Photos at FLICKR!

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Posted in Categories: Aluminum > Aluminum Association of Florida > florida > Orlando > pool enclosures > screen rooms > Services > Services > Sunrooms | No Comments »

Check Out US Alum Svcs July's Jobs Photos at FLICKR!

August 2nd, 2010

US Aluminum Services jobs photos for July 2010 are up! Make sure to check them out so you can expand your imagination of your very own backyard retreat!

CLICK HERE Check Out July’s Jobs Photos at FLICKR!

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Local Contractor Wins AAF Award

June 11th, 2010

June 10, 2010

Aluminum Industry Announces Florida Construction Awards

The Aluminum Association of Florida held its annual convention and trade show at the Omni Resort ChampionsGate in Orlando on June 4 & 5.  One of the important events at the show is the awarding of construction excellence plaques to members who submit entries and photos as part of a construction contest each year. Entries are submitted in 12 separate categories and judged as to architectural compatibility, creativity, overall appearance, fitness of purpose and proper detailing.

For 2010, Orlando contractor, US Aluminum Service was the winner of TWO categories. Awards for best entry in the categories of Miscellaneous-Acrylic Room and Multi Level Pool Enclosure were presented to Thiago Davila, President of US Aluminum Services, by Mike Sonsini, President of the Association.



President Receiving Awards

President of US Aluminum Services, Receives Awards at the Aluminum Association of Florida Conference

Sunni Simmons

Aluminum Association of Florida

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